South of Mazatlan so far
March 3, 2009 at 11:11 pm Leave a comment
Hi there from Zacaluapan. I have been biking the coast the last days and it has been quite a trip. I left Mazatlan the day after the Swiss crew headed out (right after my last post). The scenery is starting to get somewhat of a beachy jungaly feel with lots and lots and lots of bugs. Im not quite gonna say its as bad as Alaska, but the no-see-ums in San Blas were loco.
I left Mazatlan to come across an extremley sketchy hotel in Villa Union 30 Km south of town. It was five dollars so I took it and quickly realized my mistake. I dont even want to repeat the whole story on my blog but the hotel was pretty much a front for some very wierd stuff going on there. I woke to a rat on the bed and was out at first light.
the next day I ended a great ride in a beautiful town called Esuinapa de Hidalgo. I found a hotel for 6 dollars there that was quite amazing for the price and had a great time with the local bike guy, he ended up being a little wierd but he had a very good heart.
Next I cruised on the toll road to Tecuela. First let me say that the toll roads are awsome. No one uses them because they are quite expensive considering the economy and they have great shoulders and are well maintained. I feel very safe when there are toll roads. I ended this day in a gorgous little town called Tecuala off the main road system and camped at the river there. It was amazing all the ways the people there were using this river. People were constantly coming in and out for soil for the garden, washing the clothes, bathing, or playing to. The familys were all very nice and extremley suprised to see a gringo passing through on a bike!
Next day I biked down a rather bland section of the toll road and lost a race with the sun forcing me to stay behind a resturaunt on the highway. Good chat with some folks there anyway.
The next day I was cruising and feeling mighty good. The sun wasnt out so I had my shirt off and the ride was beautiful cause I turned off the main road. I rolled down into a dip and was cruising pretty fast down a hill when I pack of dogs began the usual chase and bark at the bike routine. Let me say that these dogs are not like the ones in America. No ones petting them and loving them, there work dogs on a ranchero. I got really scared and picked up the speed. One of them tried to head me off and I hit him dead on stopping me. I flew over the bars and hit my head first (cant tell you how glad I am to have had a helmet…wear one). I also hit my kneew pretty hard and got 2 very deep cuts but overall considering the speed I was going I got very lucky. I doctored and treated my wounds while everyone just started at me and then hit the road kind of shookin up. It became quite evident that my derailer (device for shifting) was not functioning at all and my bike was really acting up. I stopped and tried to fix it but had to hitch hike the remaing 12 KM to San Blas. When I got there the guy dropped me off at a bike shop and the man looked at it and we both could see it was bent way out, in the US this would have been a for sure “you need a new one problem”. The man put my derailer in a vice grip and bent it straight making it function nicely. He also fashioned me a pin for my trailer that I had lost and ghetto rigged with a spoke. When I asked him how much he said go down the street and by me a coke. Great man.
San Blas. Lovely little town with a visible mix of fisherman, ex-patriots, and happy people. It is a truly beautiful spot. I spent my first night there with a man from Bend named Brett. He knew the school that I went to (MBA) and we hit it off really quick and had a fun night out. The next day he talked me into fishing with him. He knew a guy that had a really nice boat and was a big game fisherman. This is a little out of my thing but I was willing to try something new and I paid 30 dollars for what should have cost 600. We went like 20 miles off shore and didnt find anything but had a great time being out to see and joking around none the less. I spent this night at the beach in San Blas trying to make up for the thirty dollars from fishing. Eatin alive by bugs.
And now I am hear in zacaluapan. I am going to camp tonight in chacala and I have an easy 45 KM ride tomorrow to the lovely Salulita just north of Puerta Vallerta. I am excited to go back there. I just went this spring with Mom, Jon, and Madeline and we had an incredible time. Yes mom, Ill call you from there, eating one of roberts pastries!
Love You all,
Adios
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